Click part below for information !!
Windshield
Wipers
Brakes
Shocks
Oil Filters
Endcap Screws for the Valve Cover Plate
Oxygen Sensor
Bleed Valve (MBC)
Spark Plugs & Wires
Timing
and Accessory Belts
Heater
Valve
Headlight
Control Module
Headlight
Motor
Drop-in K&N Air Filter
Cam Angle Sensor
Muffler/Silencer
Gear Shift Knob
Soft
Top/Hood
Electric
Coolant Pump
Windshield Wipers
: I just
gave my wiper assemblies a needed overhaul--nothing some fine grit sandpaper and
some low gloss black paint couldn't make look brand new! And for those who keep
asking, I found some wiper blade refills that fit perfectly into my original
wiper arms. They are "Trico"
brand 'Refills', model #45-245--they are 600mm long, so you have to trim a touch
off the end (the originals are 23 inches). They were $2.99/each, minus a
$1/each rebate--maybe I should buy a gross to ship around?!
From: Joshua Lawrence
After some searching & digging, I have determined that the stock front
braking setup for the Elan is the same as that of an 1989 Pontiac LeMans GSE 2.0
(in the US). I have compared calipers, rotors, & pads, and they are
identical. Given that this setup is pretty much universally hated, this may not
be that great of info, however in regards to caliper replacements, rebuild kits,
and sliding pins, I thought it would be worth passing along. The setup is only
the same for the 2.0 liter engine however, the others use a smaller caliper and
rotor with the same pads. I also believe that only the GSE model uses this
setup.
It seems these GM parts are available through most vendors but not in stock; the rotors were like $55 & the pads were $15. The information on your site is correct regarding the rear braking setup, both calipers and pads are identical to that of a 1991 Chevy Lumina (rear). The rotors unfortunately, are not. I was glad to learn mine were plenty thick enough to be turned, so I didn't have to search for those!
As far as Fieros go, that is a mystery I couldn't solve. I compared
with 5 different Fieros, but the braking setup on all of those was nothing like
our car's. The calipers were made out of aluminum; no resemblance.
Strangely
enough though, when I purchased the pads for an 89 LeMans, they cross referenced
to be the same as for a Fiero! So....maybe it is the same as some specific
model of Fiero?
Somehow I could not help but feel a little insulted when I learned which model this setup was inherited from, heheh.... Joshua Lawrence
"I can confirm that the front brake pads are compatible w/ the Pontiac Fiero."--Andy Y
"The front disks and pads are 1990 Vauxhall Astra GSi parts; ? Rears are Vauxhall Nova fronts."--Rod
"Doug... the brakes are from any of the "W-Body" G.M. cars
from the late 80s early 90s ..."--Tony
V
W-body cars are: 1988-up Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo, Buick Regal, Oldsmobile
Cutlass Supreme, and Pontiac Grand Prix.
The Rear Pads are from the Pontiac Grand Prix apparently fitting 88-93 models, their part is # SLT 24-377-02 and they should cost around $30 --Brian MDB
Fitting
a replacement GM-compatible Rear Caliper
(by Darren Wood)
Aftermarket Front Brake info:
Tire Rack now sells EBC brake parts for the Elan. Not the most helpful people with regard to Elans. I called them a while back and told them the part number; they wouldn't sell it to me even though they had it because it was not in their book. Be sure to double check the part numbers below here with TireRack's part numbers! Also be wary as the wheels they list as "fitting" the Elan have a smaller offset than the originals--they fit, but not exactly the same!
See EBC's website = http://ebcbrakes.com/
EBC's Brake Catalog = http://www.ebcbrakesuk.com/Assets/2004padandshoe.pdf
EBC "Greenstuff" FRONT brake pads: Part# DP2325
EBC "Reg 90"
FRONT brake pads: Part# DP325
EBC "Sport Grooved" FRONT brake
rotors: Part# GD291 L/R ("left" and
"right")
EBC
"Reg 90"
REAR brake pads for the Elan: Part# DP978
Also, from Dave Meyers:
I got the rotors through Open Road. The part number is GD291L/R and they were $79/each with $15.88 total shipping (to Michigan). Contact info is:
Open Road International
PO Box M
Torrance, CA 90507-0180
877-673-6960
310-618-8239 www.openroadint.com
For those Do-it-yourselfers: This is the part number from the side of either
of the front O.E. rotors:
" LV SHW 3360 GM 90 250 546 (GERMANY)
" --Doug
Tarox brake replacement parts: (prices
from Summer 2000 email quote)
Discs# 1331:
US $185
Pads# SP0156:
US $42 (fast road) US $64 (rally)
Fedex carriage US $100
I have been corresponding with Mark Joseph at Disc Brakes Australia (DBA) about our Elan front rotor.
It
seems
with the specs and measurements I've emailed him, he has matched the Elan rotor
to the
GM/Opel Calibra.
They
have this replacement in their DBA “Longlife Slotted” rotor.
The
price for Longlife slotted would be US $85.00 each, plus shipping.
The
Part Number is “DBA 023”
Contact Mark for more info or to order them --Doug
See here for Front Caliper Upgrade info!!
Shocks: AVO Adjustable Gas Shock Absorbers are available as OEM replacement units and offer a wide range of damping adjustment. The part numbers are found on the AVO site as follows:
Elan Front: PH747
Elan Rear: PH748
Learn more at www.avouk.com
SJ Sportscars, LTD - sells 'GAZ' adjustable struts for the Elan. You can get front and rear. They have been a reliable source of good parts and service to our Elan group--check out their website! They ship overseas.
See also the site write-up about replacement coil-overs HERE.
Oil 
Filters:
Purolator PureOne PL14459
Fram PH3593A (Fram DoubleGuard = DG3593)
AC PF1127
Motorcraft FL-810
Castrol MaxPro Plus CMP3593A
QuakerState QS3593B
WIX 51334ST
MANN (german company): part # W811/80
Using this list of replacement oil filters, I was able to purchase and fit
today a brand readily available here in Australia called Ryco, model Z79A.
Cost me $10 Australian which is very good compared with ~$69 for the genuine
Lotus filter.--Jeff
Send me more brands/part numbers if you have them.--Doug
Be sure to check out this oil filter write-up!! http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
Endcap Screws for the Valve Cover Plate: While changing my spark plug wires, I replaced the 6 screws that retain the plate over the wires--and it was easy!--(they were getting rusty) They are "hex-head, end cap screws" measuring "M5 X 10mm, with 0.8 pitch"--you can get them at probably any hardware store.
See also this
great list compiled by Matthew
Welsh about Elan replacement stainless steel bolts.
Oxygen Sensor: For those of you that would like the part numbers for the O2 sensor here they are. Discount Auto is #11039 - Made by Tomco Inc. Description = 3 wire oxygen sensor. Pep Boys #13277. --Jade
That O2 sensor from Discount Auto Parts is EXACTLY the same one I took off the car (the original). It even has the same markings "AC Rochester" & part number on it. This sensor has exactly the same electrical fitting as the OEM one, including the 'slide' where it clips to the car's body. It was $61 vs. the $459 that Lotus wanted. I saved over $400 bucks including taxes. Is this a great web-site or what? --Matthew Welsh
I just installed a replacement O2 Sensor. I used a Bosch #13277. I got it from
www.napaonline.com
If you go to that site, enter "91 Isuzu Impulse 1.6 Turbo" and then go
to the "fuel injection" section and you will see the O2 sensors there
(there are more than just the Bosch). I got the Bosch #13277 for $63 plus tax
and shipping and I won't
go into why I chose the Bosch, but will say it is a perfect fit with a 3 wire
lead--it is a direct replacement,
but it is not the O.E. part. Upon removal, the O.E. sensor had "AC
Spark Plugs", "Made in USA" on its base. The old sensor was
completely fouled up and took a bunch of "liquid wrench" and the use
of a special O2 Sensor removal socket (similar to a spark plug socket). I
can't see the O.E. part number as it was half stripped off by my attempts at
removal prior to using the special socket. I'm glad I replaced it though! Put
plenty of "anti-seize" on the threads before you install the new one
if you ever want to get it out! If you
get some other brand please be sure it has the 3 wire lead! --Doug
NGK also lists a compatible Oxygen Sensor (Part# 21012) to the
4XE1-T Isuzu engine on their
website
See Charlie's pictures on Oxygen Sensor Replacement HERE
MORE INFO:
Oxygen Sensors measure the oxygen content in exhaust gas. Oxygen in exhaust gas accurately indicates how complete the combustion process is. This data is transmitted to the car's ECU in real-time. The ECU then adjusts the air/fuel ratio to keep the exhaust gas in a composition that permits effective treatment by the catalytic converter.
Sensors should be tested at every tune up, and prior to smog checks. In California, 70% of the vehicle smog check failures are a result of poorly operating or failed Oxygen Sensors!!!
Failed and/or poorly operating oxygen sensors can cause a substantial drop in fuel economy. In addition, exhaust emissions can increase dramatically, and poor drivability may also result. Catalytic converters can also fail due to increased emissions.
Fuel additives and injector cleaners that are labeled as "oxygen sensor safe" may be used in sensor equipped vehicles. Use of additives not labeled as "oxygen sensor safe" can damage your oxygen sensor.
Bleed Valve (MBC): I decided to build the killer bleed valve this weekend. I have been using a fish tank bleeder for the last 6 months and it works okay, but I was always afraid of the loose fit. Home Depot has the answer. Here are the parts and they are all very heavy duty brass parts for air guns. The company that make the parts is "Amflo": #235D Throttle Valve 1/4" NTP; #344TD Solid Brass Tee 1/4" female; & #410D 1/4" hose repair Kit. This gives a large adjustment range, the only problem is that if you put it past 2 on the Throttle Valve you will hit your Boost Limiter fast. It looks great and seems to work great. The total cost for the 3 parts is $15. --Jade
See also the MBC write-up here.
Spark Plugs: The Pep Boys
part number for the original NGK BKR6E plugs is #6962.
A breakdown of the NGK spark plug code is as follows:
"B" = 14mm Thread Diameter
"K" = Hex Size 5/8" Projected Tip (ISO)
"R" = Resistor Type
"6" = Heat Rating (range from 2=Hot to 11=Cold)
"E" = Thread Reach 19mm (3/4")
Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind.
An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur.
The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when its hot and installation may prove difficult.
Install the plugs to 18-21.5 lb-ft. torque.
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims.
More on plugs:
From: David
Title: www.torquemaster.com
Message: Doug, I actually talked to Maury also and have a set of the Elan
plugs part number *vfn7yr coming; you're right in saying at the time you meet
with him that they didn't have a plug available but they have fairly recently
come out with these HiPo star(*) models which are designed for the DIS (distributorless
ignition system) cars. We had a fairly long talk in which he also told me that
with some basic info he will make plugs for anything out there...he is a great
guy and he shipped 5 plugs for 58 bucks because in his words "you need four
to blow and one to show."
some spark plug links you may want to checkout:
http://www.autolite.com/home/index.html
http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/SparkPlugs/PlatinumPlus4/
http://www.brisk.cz/uk/default.htm
http://www.cyclone2.co.kr/eindex_1.htm
http://www.splitfire.com/triple.htm
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars_trucks_suvs/
http://www.torquemaster.it/main1uk.htm
Spark Plug wires:
see here = http://www.magnecor.com
and here = http://www.vitekperformance.com/product/wires.asp
and here = http://www.mrgasket.com/accelmain.html
(Description: 300+
Thundersport Spark Plug Wire Set; Ferro-Spiral Core; Part No: 7967Y[=yellow])
(Accel makes a replacement coil as well--so does MSD ignition)
and here = http://www.msdignition.com/
Timing and Accessory Belts: So I traded my car's belts in with a load of cash for some new ones. My car now runs nicely but with a new "belt turning" sound from the engine--this has gone away after a few months! There are 2 drive belts, one smaller than the other. I noticed these belts definitely wearing/cracking on my car and some others so check yours out! They are both grooved belts, and seeing my old ones it seems they collect little silt/grit in the groove depths with age. The smaller belt says on it, "Bando Rib-Ace 4PK685" and the Isuzu part number written on it is "894139-0670", and the larger belt is "Bando Rib-Ace 6PK1045" with Isuzu part number "894362-7320". I've found these belts DO cost enough that you can save a great amount getting them all at your friendly local Isuzu dealer (mine is). To my surprise I examined my car's old (60K miles) timing belt and find it to be in visibly excellent condition--kinda too late now since I changed it though!! Yes, it does have Isuzu written on it (part #8944294860). Don't forget to check www.partsvoice.com for availability of these belts at an Isuzu dealer near you.
You can also see Gates online pages for their belts replacement part numbers (use 1991 Isuzu impulse cross-reference).
Heater Valve: my coolant leak is in fact the vacuum controlled valve right under the intake manifold. It is completely disintegrated.... I suspect that all Elans are prone to this...Came out no problem...in fact completely disintegrated in my hand... Check your cars...the NAPA # for the Heater valve. is 660-1200 It appears to work...can not drive the car as the roads are covered in salt up here...but unless you all hear form me...this appears to be a fix...the new valve is all plastic... and will probably outlast the car. --Tony V
In regards to the coolant leak, it was the heater valve. This valve is part
plastic/part metal. The metal flange was 60% gone. Upon trying to replace this
part, I was notified that the design was discontinued due to this problem. I was
able to use a generic heater valve by Four Seasons, part # 74612 --Scott
Parts guys know this by the generic name "heater control valve."
We sat down and used the pictures from a Four Seasons catalog (they happened to
be the parts guy's supplier for such valves) to find the part that matched the
"look" of the original valve. The only thing you need to be aware of
is how the valve works...i.e. does it close under vacuum or open under vacuum.
I think?? ours closed under vacuum.
The reason I mention this is because there may be some confusion as to what is
the "right" part. Since we matched the original valve up
visually, we expected the delivered part to "look" just like the one
we saw in the book. It did not look like the one in the book. This is because the metal on the old Lotus design decomposes.
The new one I have is all plastic. (also, as an FYI - our old valve was
listed in the book as also fitting a Ford/Mercury)
So, if you feel okay with finding a part that works, but will not be
"Lotus" then I recommend using the generic
heater valve that is out there. Plus, the plastic will guarantee no more
rot/leaks.
I sketched up a profile of the new version of the part. With it, you
should be able to find it easily at any shop.
Good luck, Scott
11/2002: from Greg
Carpenter
Title: Elan Heater Valve
Message: I have confirmed that the vacuum-operated Elan Heater Valve is
identical to that used in Volvo's 740/940 models. This may or may not make it
cheaper, but will certainly help with availability.
Phoned up
Classic
Components (telephone +44 (0)1324 722777--also known as
Eurojag) and found them to be very helpful. Basically the heater valve part no.
C41051A is the one I fitted. It's off a series 3 XJ6 and a also fitted to
the XJS. The price is £17.95 plus VAT plus postage and packaging of £1.50.
Another option (and I recon the slightly better one) is to fit a valve part
number CBC2536. This vacuum operated heater control valve is off a Jag
XJ40, it's the same price but apparently a little bit smaller as valve part no.
C41051A has a small bracket on it allowing it to be mounted to the bulkhead.
To the right is a photo of the jag heater control valve fitted to my M100.
As you can see, the vacuum unit is a lot bigger but the valve works a treat.
Hope this helps, Paul Busek, UK
Headlight
Control Module:
The
headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It
was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks
exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the
Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are
incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the
headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in
investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is
prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the
first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is
5"x5", black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on
the right. Also, the module has the word "GUIDE" written on its top.
On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand
side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master
cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott
On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan
Headlight motor: Check out this write-up for rebuild info and instructions for the motor.
Drop-in K&N Air Filter: just in case you have not found it by now the correct P/N for the drop in K&N filter is E-2360 (number corrected)--and it works great! --Joel
The part number quoted on the parts section for the K&N filter would appear to be incorrect (I have fixed it now-Doug). I ordered one from Demon Tweeks (seriously helpful people). They had the Elan M100 listed as using an E2360 (it's listed on the site as a 2350). Anyway after some discussion we established that a 2360 is 160mm high and a 2350 is 165m high (diameters the same). To cut a long story short they sent out a 165mm high filter and it doesn't fit (you can't shut the airbox). The replacement 160mm high E2360 filter fits like a dream and also has the same end profile as the paper filter I took out (which is also 160mm high). --Russ
In the US, the K&N E-2360 filter can be purchased online at www.4filters.com, for $31.17 plus $5 shipping. --Don Ferrario
Check out K&N's full application guide HERE
Cam Angle Sensor: See the CAS write-up in the repairs section.
Muffler/Silencer: I finally got tired of the muffler rattle in my Elan and decided to replace it. I thought I'd let you all know the solution I came up with. After many unsuccessful attempts to contact JanSpeed, I decided to go with a Magnaflow (http://www.magnaflow.com) muffler (part # 11244) and a new chrome tip. The straight-through design should increase the performance a bit, and at $99, it's a bargain (I really didn't want to drop the $800 to redo the whole system and certainly not the $350 for a replacement stock muffler). The Midas shop around the corner from my office (13021 Washington Blvd, 310-305-7929) did a good job with the installation (I'm apparently the second Elan they've outfitted with the same setup). The resulting sound is very nice and, with no more rattle, it's quite a bit less noisy. Hopefully it will last longer than the stock one. --John
From: Matt Welsh
Message: I have spent a long time recently thinking about the exhausts
available for this car, so here are some thoughts... The original Elan Muffler
was 5.25h x 8w x 17L. An 5.25 x 8 oval muffler (center in/center out) is the
most important thing to look for when selecting a replacement, as that is the
dimension that has been very carefully hollowed out in the stock underside of
the Elan. Look & see if you don't believe me. Many aftermarket exhausts for
this car use a 4h x 9w muffler; this causes the muffler to contact (and rattle)
exactly where Ash & Bryn have stated. The rear clamp that goes around your
stock muffler is fitted 3" from the end of the 17" muffler body, and
can be removed & re-used on any other 5.25h x 8w muffler you buy, saving
additional work in mounting the new muffler. If you buy a muffler with a
14" long body, mount this clamp on the end of the muffler, instead of
3" from the end, see what I mean? There is a particularly nice muffler
which would be ideal as a replacement at http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=167946&BQ=jcw2.
It is the first item, item A. If you use this part number (47rj2298t)
when ordering it will only cost $99.95 USD until November 2001 (You can save 20
bucks). This is a straight-thru design like the original, and pretty sweet
looking, don't you think? Polished mirror-finish stainless-steel! Note, if you
have an aftermarket system, check to see if it is still 2" diameter pipe,
and select a diameter that is right for your exhaust. Also, be careful as an
aftermarket muffler may use a side rather than a center intake. Doug, the
Magnaflow listed (above) as the suggested replacement muffler on the web
site is 4 x 9, and will encounter the fitment problems noted by Ash & Bryan.
Magnaflow does have 5 x 8 mufflers (www.magnaflow.com).
The 17" body of the stock muffler fills the entire space available, but if
you get the Magnaflow with the 14" body you'll have room to fit a nice tip
to the end.
Gear Shift Knob: I finally found a gear knob that was nice enough for me to buy. It is a "Conrero" and can be seen in my Elan Gallery pictures. You can check them out here. --Doug
BTW, people sometimes ask how to remove the stock Elan shift knob. You can either pull the skirt down (just like in grammar school!) from under the knob to reveal the grub screw OR you can release the square base of the shift boot from its clips and pull the dress up real far to see the screw! Loosen the single grub screw with an Allen wrench and the boot will drop off--refitting is a bit more time consuming to get it back together the same way. I did it the latter way myself, but both have been done.
Convertible Soft Top/Hood: I have not read the messages in about a month...so here are some responses to some "old" questions. R&D Enterprises in Pa. sell an exact match to our convertible top. I just received it. It cost $750.00 and took about 2 weeks to get. They were the only place I could find one in the US outside of Lotus. --Gary
Regarding M100 soft top replacement: I Found another US aftermarket manufacturer called "cabrioworld" with a price of $425 and can be contacted at www.cabrioworld.com or Jeff at (800) 752 1563 or (973) 642 4058. thank you, Loren
The original manufacture of the M100 hood was "Tickford", who are still trading but under a new name, "Trim Technology" = http://www.trim-technology.com/
Check here as well, http://www.autohoods.co.uk/ca_lotus_elan.htm
See HERE about fixing/adjusting your top seals --Doug
See HERE too about re-dyeing your top easily --Doug
Coolant
Pump: My electric coolant pump (engine management) stopped
working and I found that the Lotus replacement part was very expensive. This
is a brief summary of my troubleshooting and replacement.
Test the pump:
The electric pump operates when the engine temp is v-high, but the engine is
turned off. The fans and pump use the same switch (next to the
thermostat). To test the pump run the engine until the fans come on, turn
off the engine and listen to the pump (it's quiet, so go around to the front of
the car).
Check the fuse:
The pump has it's own fuse, so if the fans operate but the pump does not, check
the fuse first! It's located under the dash-cover (remove the two screws
and lift off). It is fuse no. 4 in the 'C' fuse box.
Locating the pump:
The coolant pump is located next to the left hand headlight pod (when sat in the
car). It is a little electric pump with two wires and two hoses attached.
Sourcing a new pump:
During my research Ashaman found a site which showed a very similar pump, which
had been used in the past to replace a Mercedes coolant pump, which is very
similar to the Lotus pump.
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/jabsco.html#C030P5
This pump is 12 volt and features a magnetic drive - this means that there is no
way for water to ever get into the electrics. It also means that if a
foreign body got into the impeller and jammed it, the motor should not burn out.
I purchased my pump in the UK from:
http://www.southernmarine.co.uk/index.htm
(look under JABSCO CIRCULATION PUMPS).
59500-0012 Jabsco 59500 circulation pump
It cost me £95 inc VAT, compared to the Lotus part at £195 inc VAT.
When the pump arrived it turned out to be EXACTLY the same shape and size as the
original. Even the wire colouring is the same. Only difference seems
to be that they recommend a 2.5amp fuse rather than the 5amp recommended for the
original pump.
To fit:
1)Make sure that the coolant is COLD!
2) No need to drain coolant, not much spills as the pump is at the top of the
system.
3) Loosen the water pipes attached to the pump.
4) Remove the 8mm bolt holding the pump in place.
5) Keep the piece of rubber that is wrapped around the pump for fitting the new
one.
6) Get the new pump ready, then quickly pull the water hoses off the old pump
and place onto the new one.
7) Fit new pump in the mount with the rubber etc.
8) Cut the power lead for the old pump and use an electrical joining block to
connect the wires to the old connector (or use a new connector).
NB: Do not use any Jabsco pump for petrol, petroleum products, or fluids with a
flash point below 37° C (98° F).
--Andrew
Please write to me with the specifics if you can think of something else to add to this list!
Happy Elaning, Doug