I had mentioned my solution previously over the years but I have yet to hear
anyone trying it. I have stopped all leaks from the 'A' pillar by making one modification.
Here it is: the idea of using the drain holes at the 'A' pillar is ridiculous.
The 'A' pillar holes assume that they should/could/would drain the water when
the water collects there. I attacked the problem by deciding that instead of trying
to drain the water, I would PREVENT the water from ever collecting. I determined
the reason water collects is the seal on the hood does not press against the windscreen
rail effectively. This is probably due to shrinkage over the years. Instead of
modifying the hood seal, I decided to ADD a seal to the windscreen edge. Using
a standard D profile seal (found anywhere on the internet, catalogs or scrap yards)
I attached the seal strip the whole length of the windscreen edge. I used 3M automotive
seal adhesive. The first time I tried to close the hood, I thought I made a mistake.
It was really hard to close...but really really tight. Over the course of 3 months,
it became easier. 2 years later and I still do not get any leaks or otherwise
known as the "Wet Knee Syndrome." See the pictures below to better explain
Here are the other pictures for the A pillar mod:
The instructions to the mod are quite simple:
- Locate a strip of D-profile seal/gasket equal to the width across the top
of the windscreen (approximately 1 inch wide).
- Use 3M (or like) glue and attach strip to vertical edge of the windscreen
- Trim ends and glue them closed.
- Let dry per glue instructions. Use as normal but realize that the added bulk
of the seal will make closing top (hood) more difficult (and hence watertight).
- Over time, it will be come easier to close the top (hood).
- write up by Scott
The standard solution to water leaks at the top of the A pillars is to apply
a suitable amount of Sikaflex 221 onto the seal above the drain holes in the windscreen
header bar and as far along as you want. Apply cling film over all of the Sikaflex
and close the hood. Leave for a few hours for the Sikaflex to dry then open the
hood and remove the cling film and you should in theory have a seal that is contoured
to the shape of the hood seal. I also found that water could also seep through
the stitching holes at the very corner of the hood where the side windows meet
the windscreen header rail and the side gutter is formed. I applied Sikaflex to
the outside of the hood material at this point and managed to make a neat job
of it and have had no leaks for 8-9 years. Oh, and I forgot to add the use of
copious amount of silicone grease Dow Corning MS4 wiped onto all of the seals
really helps keep the water out. - Richard Steele
I agree with Scott & to an extent the solution offered by Richard on the
hood leaks. Rather than trying to figure out a way to aid the water to drain itself
out thru the drain holes, I have also opted to nip it in the bud by preventing
the water from getting past the seal between the header rail & the windscreen
in the first place. I noticed that due to the age it has lost its ability to provide
a good seal. What I've opted to do was to stick on a length of adhesive-backed
sponge tape (about 1/8 inch thick) throughout the entire length of the windscreen
where it meets the header rail. The sponge tape was about 1 inch wide & continuous
for the entire length of the windscreen top. It has prevented water from seeping
in between the gap that would otherwise be there. This has worked for me for the
entire wet season here where it absolutely pours almost daily for about 3 months
or so. Since the sponge tape was so cheap ($2), I opt to renew it yearly when
it has lost its sponginess. It has kept me dry 9 out of 10 times when I would
have otherwise gotten the "Wet Knee Syndrome"! Hope that helps someone.
See here too about re-dyeing your top easily